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GEMMOLOGY Gemmology is the science dealing with the study of gemstones. Gemmologists identify gemstones, sort them out, grade them and can advise on the various properties regarding suitability of particular stones for setting in different metals. Their work is essentially scientific and technical and requires great skill. Jewellery designers use their artistic ability to create new designs for various types of clients and markets. They may also designs for various types of clients and markets. They may also design the jewellery according to specifications of individual customers. They either work on their own or freelance. Permanent employment may be with big export or designer houses or in small exclusive set-ups. Gemmologists and jewellery designers with relevant qualification and experience may also be involved in teaching and training. JEWELLERY DESIGN Jewellery design courses teach the rudiments of designing, different stone settings, various kinds of finish to be given to jewellery, techniques of fabrication, etc. The students are trained to design on paper giving complete details of size and weight of stones, the size of the final product, the weight in metal, etc. Gemmologists: Good powers of observation; attention to detail; precision; ability to concentrate; objective approach; ability to take responsibility; and ability to work on one's own. Jewellery designers also, in addition to the aforementioned traits, require artistic creativity; imagination; aesthetic sense; colour sensitivity; interest in, and awareness of, new ideas; understanding and appreciation of prevalent tastes, customs, traditions, and trends in various strata of society and in the different parts of the country and the world; ability to communicate ideas to clients/customers and artisans/workers equally well; ability to take criticism; and willingness to lower one's artistic standards occasionally in the interests of economic necessity or technical workmanship.
The main objective of the courses in gemmology is to impart the latest technical knowhow with respect to gem cutting, sorting, grading, valuation and identification of gemstones. These courses which are usually or short duration of three to eight months, provide up-to-date knowledge o scientific developments in the field to students who can become skilled artisans. The basic educational qualification required to join such courses is a pass in the Secondary School Examination.
Government has realized the vast potential for growth in gem and jewellery exports. Exports in this sector have been increasing by leaps and bounds, especially in the last decade. Diamonds continue to hold a prominent position in these areas and India's share in the world market is approaching the 50 per cent mark. The major growth, however, has been achieved by jewellery export which has been identified by the government as a thrust export area. The gem and jewellery industry is totally employment-oriented and there are openings for various categories of jobs. Jewellers' firms offer both artisan's jobs as well as designer's. Establishing a jewellery shop is possible for those with adequate capital. Jewellery designers may decide to freelance for both Indian and global markets. With a background in gemmology jewellery designers can strike out in a big way with export houses and designer jewellery firms. With proper foreign contacts export opportunities may be tapped on an individual basis by gemmologists as well as jewellery designers. Many designers opt for higher training abroad and they set up their own training schools. The most exclusive show of jewellery is organized at Basel in Switzerland and attended by gemmologists and jewellery designers to study international trends and prospects. As with all creative wok, success depends on ability, luck, personality, current trends and good contacts, preferably with capital backing. Prospects are bright and lucrative.
Gemmology Gemmological Institute of India,
29, Gurukul Chambers, 187189 Mumbadevi Road, Mumbai-400 002. Courses offered
include: Short courses: • Department of Geology, St.
Xavier's College, Mumbai-400 001. • Small Industries Service
Institute, 65/1 GST Road, Grading, polishing conducted in collaboration with
Madras Germs and Diamond manufactures' Association. • Indian Gemmological
Institute, 10th Floor, Nirmal Towers, 26 After graduation: Many local institutes in Mumbai provide courses in various aspects of gemmology. Jewellery Design • Gem and Jewellery Export
Promotion Council, Rajasthan The aforementioned institutes
conduct short-term courses in: • National Institute of
Fashion Technology, New Delhi, Conducts a three-year diploma programme in
accessory design for students who have completed the plus two or equivalent
examination. This course includes designing of jewellery. Admission to the
course is highly competitive. (For details refer to the chapter on Fashion)
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